Rwanda, Africa - A Tribute to Human Spirit - Lead to Swacha Bharat Abhiyan

Rwanda, Africa – A tribute to Human Spirit

 

The name Rwanda invokes a strange set of opinions in every internationally aware person.  I visited Rwanda in Nov, 2013 on business.  This is my on ground account of Rwanda and the power of transformation.   

Rwanda is in the centre of Africa bordering Uganda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania and Burundi.  Part of the Belgian Congo holdings, it became independent in 1962.  The divide and rule policy of the Belgian colonialists left the country deeply divided between the Hutu majority tribe and the highly educated Tutsi who were the minority tribe.

A simmering cauldron of ethnic strife for a number of years led to civil wars and social unrest.  In 1994 it all culminated in a mass genocide where the Hutu majority killed almost 1 Million (10,00,000) Tutsi Minority people.  An estimated 350,000 women were deliberately infected with AIDS through rape during the genocide, and are continuing to die from the disease even today.

After my meetings with Rwanda Development Authority and visiting their Special Economic Zone it was time to visit the “Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre”, in Kigali the capital city.  The Genocide Memorial is a neat building surrounded by gardens.  As I entered the Memorial I saw a direction board indicating – MASS GRAVES.  Instead of going into the Memorial building, I went in that direction and came across a nice garden, with pathways interspersed with rectangular cement structures slightly projecting from the ground with small glass opening on the top.  Laying side by side 5 of them in all.

 

Only when I read the boards did I realize that this is the resting place for 2,50,000 people killed in the genocide.  2,50,000 people. Can you imagine!!  As I walked amongst these graves I could see a few families sitting on benches in silent contemplation, probably remembering their loved ones and repeatedly asking one question “Why?”, “Why their loved ones were killed?”

I could see flower bouquets laid here and there and people bowed in respect in few places.  I was jolted back to reality when my mind suddenly realized that there was so less space to bury 250000 people.  I realized that trenches had been dug using bulldozers and bodies were piled in thousands and covered with mud in the aftermath of the genocide. The rectangular cement structures were built above mass graves. 

 

Shocked by what my mind was conjuring, I felt shivers, cold sweat and a mix of strange emotions to be in the midst of so many souls who must have spent their last days, hours, minutes and seconds in extreme agony and torture.

More shocks were in store for me when I walked inside the Memorial.  The Memorial building is a no picture and no videography zone.  As I went in a circular walkway, I could see the genesis of the problem being colonial Europeans trying to stamp their authority with no understanding of the local conditions, culture and way of life.  The story of Rwanda in many ways is the story of India pre-independence. 

Hutu militant groups fed with years of hate fell on their neighbours and friends making a killing for over 4 months.  No one was spared.  Children, 1,50,000 of them in age groups from few months to 12 years.  A separate section is dedicated only to children.  Photos of 14 Children who died represent all the 1,50,000 dead. 

 

Under each of those photos, trivia like age, favourite food, favourite drink, favourite person, cause of death.  It no longer seemed trivia any more.  So poignant. I was in tears.  I was shocked again and again.  One child’s favorite drink was Fanta and another one’s Coke.  A common thread in all of them killed by Machete.

 

My agonized mind was in turbulence asking myself again and again “what tribe or religion or caste do these children belong to?”  I always thought that we are one species – Homo sapiens, but we are not.  We are deeply divided. Deeply prejudiced.  Down underneath our sophistication, we human beings are still animals.

The killings were especially brutal because primitive weapons like Panga, Machete and Knives were used.  Subsequent third party investigations revealed that many organisations, government and even leaders of religious orders and tribes participated or abetted the genocide.  A specific event recalled was about 1800 Tutsis, who had taken shelter in a church.  A few Hutus fell on them with Pangas and systematically cut the victim’s tendons near the ankles so that they are unable to run.  And at leisure all the victims were subsequently hacked to death.

I left the Memorial with many sobering thoughts, one thought was of a kid named Donata, 11 years old who had seen his parents being killed in the genocide. 

Donata writes, “Sometimes, I get terribly sad because I can’t imagine what my life will be like.  I will never see my parents again, and yet I will see the people who killed them, and those people’s children for the rest of my life.  I can’t bear the thought of it.”

Finishing my tour I came back to the hotel and went to the dinner meeting with the Rwanda Minister for Industries and other officials.

During the dinner the young Rwandan officials spoke a lot about Rwanda being the leader in Africa for Innovation, most progressive amongst the strife ridden neighbouring countries, most transformed, etc, etc.  Finally I came around and asked them about the Genocide.  Surprisingly all the Rwandans were very candid and articulate about the issues.

I understood that post 1994 a progressive government under Dr. Paul Kagame had come to power.  The government had driven home many points to prevent reoccurrence of genocide, like abolition of tribalism, abolition of hate based on ethnicity, inclusiveness and channelization of energy for nation building.

One of the inclusiveness exercise was “Umuganda”, pronounced as muganda.  One of the young Rwandan official explained more, “Every Rwandan come together on last Saturday of the month to improve their community.  This has been crucial for reconciliation and building Rwanda anew.  Umuganda begins at 8 am at which time the community meets to work on a project.  The activity undertaken might be building a road, rehabilitating wetlands, fixing erosion or building houses for vulnerable people, or just cleaning of your vicinity.  This is followed by a community meeting to discuss national and local issues.  The concept is related to the idea of solidarity and community sense of living.  Even the President and the Government come out and participate fully.”

Our curiosity was piqued and we asked whether we can witness and participate in Umuganda event since providentially the next day was the last Saturday of the month.  Though it was late in the night, the Minister for Industries showed lot of dexterity and organized permissions for us and gave us a government vehicle with pass to move around freely.  He also attached two young Rwandans to accompany us as guides. 

All set for Umuganda, we woke up early and set off to location earmarked for us.  As we got down from the vehicle we could see in the misty morning an old lady with a shovel cleaning weeds clogging a road side drain and an old man picking up papers and wastes from the side walk.  We were taken to a hill slope and told that the municipality has planned and placed markers to dig a trench of 4 ft wide and 2 km length to prevent soil erosion and hold the rain water.

A group of people came in another truck and shared their tools with us.  Pangas for cleaning the grass, Machetes to cut the shrubs and Shovels to dig the trench.  We started digging in earnest but with troubled thoughts of how in the world will we finish a 2 km long trench.  In 30 minutes we were tiring from digging and clearing the mud.  All around action was picking up, people-young and old, men and women, volunteers from other countries, government officials started gathering.  Everyone with their own tools, digging and clearing a trench.

Singing started along with rhythmic clapping, every sentence last word repeated and strangely motivating the tired muscles and cleansing the minds from stress.  We dug and dug and finally gave up.  I took my camera and started clicking the action.  Amazing number of people, self-driven, self-managed, local leaders setting targets, marking and digging, like a colony of ants.  Each of these people seem to know exactly what was needed and each seemed to be working with a higher calling of the community service.

As I finished my photo clicking, I could see the 2 Km target was going to easily achieved by noon.  What is a 2 Km target for 100s of people working together?

Finishing all these, when driving back to the hotel, I was awash with many thoughts.  We have so many failed states like Afghanistan, Pakistan, Sudan, Congo, Bangladesh, an endless list.  Rwanda could have ended up in this list.  However by sheer human spirit and an African way, they have resurged into the global community of progressive nations.



A young garbage sorter also into cleaning act



Positive thoughts apart there were some troubling questions also, if such a killing can happen in Rwanda, is it not possible in India?  It is definitely possible.  It has occurred in our past, and as recent as in the partition time during our independence. 

As progressive people we need to recognize that the only way such hate percolates in society is when we look for exclusiveness, pocket development and ghetto behavior.  Inclusive development, respect for all religions, empathy and recognition of our plurality is very important for a successful nationhood.

Rwanda marked twenty years since genocide on June 28^th 2014.   I salute the Rwandan spirit. 

Photos taken in Nov, 2013 in Kigali, Rwanda.